A man devoted to promoting and transforming traditional techniques, he combines innovative approaches to working with materials to redefine couture. His journey is a testament to perseverance having faced rejection twice when applying to show as a guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, his application was ultimately rejected by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. Despite these setbacks, Imane Ayissi grew more audacious as he stayed true to his craft and he eventually broke the ceiling. In January 2020 he was invited to present his Spring-Summer collection, titled ‘Akuma’ meaning richness in the Beti language.
“It’s the way you craft a dress that will give it life.” Ayissi has said. This show built his esteem and attention with international media.
His career began with his involvement in his home country’s national ballet team before moving to France in the ’90s to work with the French ballet star Frank Dupont. It was during his modelling years while in France that he picked up design from brands he worked with which include high-profile names such as Cardin, Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Givenchy and Lanvin. At this time, he began to make small collections and fit-to-measure attire for clients. Although he lacked formal design training, he developed his skills by making garments for his mother, who was crowned Miss Cameroon in 1960 and later worked with one of the largest ateliers in Cameroon
He’s now known for his unique use of materials like Raffia, Obom bark cloth, Faso Dan Fani stripes, Kente cloth and traditional couture fabrics such as taffeta and silk. Additionally, he’s known to ethically source organic fabrics from African cooperatives, blending them with his craftsmanship to showcase the richness and beauty of these materials. With nearly two decades in the industry, he has dressed notable personalities, including Zendaya and Angela Basset.
His Autumn-Winter 24 collection, ‘Akallan’, bursts onto the scene as a bold testament to creative mastery, redefining the boundaries of fashion with its unique blend of artistry and innovation.
The work, representative of the ingenuity behind it, explores the intersections of identity, culture, and history through fashion. Anchored in Léopold Sédar Senghor’s words, “The pride of being different should not prevent the happiness of being together,” the collection reimagines two iconic African garments: the boubou, a staple across West and Central Africa and the Kaba, a garment once imposed by European colonizers but later reclaimed as a cultural symbol in Cameroon. These pieces serve as a canvas to honor their origins while transcending geographical and historical boundaries. By connecting their structural elements to the kimono, Korean Hanbok, Tang-era Chinese dresses and European garments of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, the collection becomes a dialogue between continents and eras, celebrating shared artistry amidst diversity.
This narrative is further enriched through collaboration with Wang Ying, a diplomat and painter whose unique technique blends traditional Chinese painting with impressionism. Ying’s contributions: silk and eco-friendly bamboo fabric prints as well as fabric paintings, add layers of depth and sustainability to the collection. Through this journey across Africa, Asia and Paris, Ayissi weaves a tapestry of unity and interconnectedness, proving that fashion can bridge divides while celebrating individuality. The collection transforms garments into cultural and historical maps, inviting wearers to embody stories that traverse time and space.
Credit: Imane Ayissi Website
