Imane Ayissi’s Paris Summer Spring 25 collection, ‘Akalann’, is a stunning celebration of artistry, culture, and innovation. Drawing inspiration from Léopold Sédar Senghor’s words, “The pride of being different should not prevent the happiness of being together,” the collection reimagines iconic African garments such as the boubou and the Kaba while connecting them to global traditions like the Japanese kimono, Korean Hanbok, and European late 18th-century dress. Through this fusion, Ayissi creates a dialogue between continents and eras, transforming garments into cultural maps that honor history while transcending boundaries.
The collection is further enriched by a collaboration with Wang Ying, a diplomat and painter whose silk and bamboo fabric prints blend traditional Chinese painting with impressionism. Ying’s contributions add layers of depth and sustainability, reflecting Ayissi’s commitment to ethical practices and organic materials. Together, they craft a narrative of unity and interconnectedness, proving that fashion can bridge divides while celebrating individuality.
This bold vision is the culmination of Ayissi’s nearly two-decade-long journey, marked by perseverance and an unwavering dedication to his craft. Despite facing rejection twice from the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, Ayissi remained audacious, staying true to his mission of redefining couture through innovative material techniques and traditional craftsmanship. His breakthrough came in January 2020 when he presented his Spring-Summer collection, ‘Akuma’ (meaning richness in the Beti language), earning international acclaim and solidifying his place in the fashion world.
Ayissi’s career began far from the runways of Paris. Born in Cameroon, he first found his footing in the arts through his involvement with the national ballet team. After moving to France in the 1990s, he worked with ballet star Frank Dupont and later transitioned into modeling, collaborating with iconic brands like Yves Saint Laurent, Dior and Givenchy. It was during this time that Ayissi began designing, creating small collections and custom pieces for clients. Though he lacked formal training, his innate talent and passion for craftsmanship honed by making garments for his mother, a former Miss Cameroon and qorking in one of Cameroon’s largest ateliers shaped his unique approach to fashion.
The work, representative of the ingenuity behind it, explores the intersections of identity, culture, and history through fashion. Anchored in Léopold Sédar Senghor’s words, “The pride of being different should not prevent the happiness of being together,” the collection reimagines two iconic African garments: the boubou, a staple across West and Central Africa and the Kaba, a garment once imposed by European colonizers but later reclaimed as a cultural symbol in Cameroon. These pieces serve as a canvas to honor their origins while transcending geographical and historical boundaries. By connecting their structural elements to the kimono, Korean Hanbok, Tang-era Chinese dresses and European garments of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, the collection becomes a dialogue between continents and eras, celebrating shared artistry amidst diversity.
Today, Ayissi is celebrated for his innovative use of materials, blending traditional African textiles like raffia, Obom bark cloth, and Kente with couture fabrics such as taffeta and silk. His ethically sourced organic materials, often from African cooperatives, highlight the richness and beauty of African heritage while championing sustainability. This commitment has earned him a loyal following, with notable figures like Zendaya and Angela Bassett among his clientele.
Through the Akalann collection, Ayissi continues to push the boundaries of fashion, transforming garments into vessels of cultural and historical storytelling. His work invites wearers to embody narratives that traverse time and space, celebrating the shared artistry of diverse traditions. As he once said, “It’s the way you craft a dress that will give it life.” And in every stitch, every fold, and every fabric, Imane Ayissi breathes life into a vision of unity, creativity, and timeless elegance.
Credit: Imane Ayissi Website
